Sunday, September 8, 2013

Let's Learn to Count!

These are phonetic representations of the Arabic numbers I know so far. Yay counting!

1 – wahed
2 – jouj (think French)
3 – tlata
4 – rabah
5 – hamsa (the rough H sound I talked about earlier)
6 – si'tah
7 – s’baah
8 – tumenia (my favorite number in Arabic)
9 – t’suld (“ts” is the hardest thing ever)
10 – ashra
11 – h’dash
12 – t’nash
13 – tl’tash
14 – rah’bash
15 – ham’stash (this makes me think of hamsters and mustaches)
16 – sit’ash
17 – s’baah’ash
18 – tumen’tash
19 – ts’tash
20 – ashrin

HAMSTASH:

Arabic Is Hard

Let’s talk about Arabic for a minute.  Please bear with me as you wander through my hastily written run-on sentences.  And hopefully this doesn’t turn into some agonizingly pedantic history lesson.

The most widely known Arabic is Modern Standard Arabic (also called Fus’ha), and this is the style most similar to that of the Koran.  MSA is generally a literary form of the language, and is used to write books, poetry, newspapers, etc. People from many Arab countries (I’ll talk about what that means in a minute) don’t necessarily speak Fus’ha, but rather a regional dialect.  Most regional dialects are pretty similar to Fus’ha, and can be understood by people from other areas, though a speaker’s country or region of origin can often be detected by other native speakers based on accent and diction.  Morocco’s regional language – known as Darija – is different from many other Arabic dialects.  People here in the streets will not understand MSA, and other Arabic speakers may not fully understand Darija.  Darija shares the alphabet, phonemes, and even some words with Fus’ha, but it’s apparent that the two might as well be different as modern American English is from Shakespeare, or as Shakespeare is from Beowulf. 

I’m not really an expert on how all of the different types of Arabic work, so you might want to google it or something if you want to understand it better than I’ve laid it out here. 

Anyway, here in Morocco, many people also speak French, in addition to Darija.  Morocco was formerly a French colony, which gained its independence in 1956(ish), though the northern coast and Tangier spent some time as Spanish and international zones.  The majority of French speakers are streets vendors (who might speak as many as six languages and often hock their wares in Darija, French, Spanish, English, and even Mandarin), upper-middle class erudites, or younger people who have grown up in a more technologically and educationally advanced, multilingual society (compared with that of their parents).  For example, in many American students’ host families here, children of all ages know French and Darija, and are somewhat familiar with English and Fus’ha, while their parents speak only Darija, “the language of the streets.”

Speaking more in generalities now, Arabic is hard.  The only thing that could make it harder would be if it was tonal (thank goodness it isn’t or I’d never be able to talk to anyone).  For someone with zero Arabic experience (i.e. me), it is difficult not only to master additional phonemes, but to learn to write with a whole new alphabet.  For example, Arabic has an aspirated, throat-growling H sound that is nowhere to be found in English or the Romance languages, though it might have a counterpart in something like Danish or German.  Some letters sound different every time I hear them – I’m still not sure if “ana daliba” (“I’m a student”) has a T or a D, or if it’s something halfway in between. 

To make matters more difficult, Arabic is written in a kind of cursive script, so each letter’s shape changes based on where it is in the word and what other letters it’s connected too.  And the vowel situation. I can’t even talk about it right now. (Mostly because I’m still kind of fuzzy on how some letters get to turn into vowels if you take away their dots, or how vowels might just be dots around the word, or something like that).

I feel like I’m in kindergarten again, learning how to write letters.

Take a look at that alphabet:



Last but not least, I’m going to do my best to clarify the distinction between Arab countries and Muslim countries, which I think is a relatively important one.  While Arabic as a language is without a doubt highly significant to Muslims everywhere, not every Muslim country (i.e. where the majority of citizens identify as practicing Islam over any other religion) is an Arab one (i.e. ethnically or linguistically of Arab origin). The Koran is most often distributed in traditional Arabic form, though it has been widely translated, and for this reason Arab and Muslim countries are often assumed (at least in the U.S.) to be synonymous.  In fact, only around half of Muslim countries are Arab. 

Morocco’s situation as an Arab country is a little shaky, because of the significant historical and cultural impact of Berber tribes here.  And the Berbers are definitely not Arab. The Arabs actually came to Morocco in the 7th century as conquerors, but the Berbers are the original inhabitants of the Rif Mountains in the north, the High and Middle Atlas Mountains, and the southern Souss plains.  The Berber tribes played a significant role in Moroccan independence, though attempts were made to stifle Berber customs and cultural identity (which they called Amazighte) in the post-colonial period in order to promote unity, stability, and nationalism in the fledgling nation.  It’s only recently that there have been attempts to preserve and recognize Berber culture. 


So far this is my understanding of Arabic and Moroccan lingual identity.  A lot of complicated history that I may or may not have gotten right.  But there is it.  Might have to update it again as I learn more.  

Interneters Anonymous

Until I came to Morocco, I wasn't really aware of how reliant on (or addicted to) the internet I am.

Long story short, I left my iPhone at home for a variety of reasons, so I’ve been without it since I went through security at Kansas City Airport a week ago. Not having a smart phone isn’t really the issue.  I have a cheap, unlocked phone with a Moroccan SIM card that works fine for texts and calls.  

The real issue is my lack of internet.  We have very  limited time with our study abroad center's internet, and occasionally you can set up at a café with free wifi (if you buy a cup of tea or something), or pay for a real internet café.  But until I invest in an "internet usb" (as they call it here), all my correspondence is written in advance and sent or posted whenever I have a minute of wifi.
 
But basically I’m having an internet crisis in Morocco.

It’s been stressful and slightly traumatic to have no way to stay in consistent contact with people in the U.S., check my email, or keep tabs on world news, even for just a week so far.  We were informed by our program coordinator that SIT students studying at the Amman, Jordan site would soon be evacuated to continue their studies here in Rabat, in the wake of escalations in the Syrian crisis.  Which none of us knew had escalated.  We’re out of the loop, and that’s a hard thing to deal with. We’re free of the pressures of constant communication, but we’ve lost most of our connections to the rest of the world. 


On a more trivial note, it’s strange (at least for someone used to constantly googling things) to not be able to look up the exotic foods, spices, plants, etc. encountered here.  (And I still have no idea what that Sandra Bullock movie was. A few weeks ago I’d have already looked it up and could have given you the release date, synopsis, and critical reviews.)  But without internet, even some cultural explanations are much more limited.  Some things here don’t have any kind of English equivalents; 10 minutes of roundabout explanation leaves you with the unsatisfying answer that things are just unfamiliar “melons” or “figs” or “red spice.”.

American Pop Culture = Moroccan Pop Culture

This is going to be more of a list of random observations about music, movies, and entertainment in Morocco.  The music we’ve heard on the street, the shows we’ve seen playing on tv, etc. There’s actually a lot more American pop culture than I would have anticipated here, especially since the majority of people don’t speak English.  Some stuff has Arabic lyrics over American songs, but most is just like we’d hear it here.  There are also a lot of American shows and movies playing on tv, with Arabic or French subtitles, and occasional French dubbing.

  • ·       Macklemore – Thrift Shop
  • ·       Beyonce
  • ·       Moroccan Snoop Dog (i.e. Snoop Dog music with Moroccan rap lyrics over it) (actually pretty awesome)
  • ·       Country (random American country, like Brad Paisley or Toby Keith from several years ago)
  • ·       Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s (Philosopher’s?) Stone, with French dubbing (Dumbledore was much less impressive with a whiny French guy’s voice)
  • ·       unidentified Sandra Bullock movie (also with a really, really young-looking Ryan Gosling as a skeevy murderer)
  • ·       unidentified (and really weird) Brad Pitt movie, with Arabic dubbing
  • ·       I Know What You Did Last Summer, with Arabic subtitles
  • ·       E! TV, with French subtitles, covering Miley Cyrus and Kim Kardashian



Just in general about music, if it was top 40 in the States, it’s popular here.  Including some things you might think we shocking or inappropriate (especially in a predominantly Islamic country). 

alone without internet

I have so much free time (at least for today), and I’m can’t find my way back to my host family house without help. So I’m sort of stuck here. In my defense, the Medina of Rabat is labyrinthine.  And the internet is out. And no one is home to call if I do get myself lost somewhere. 


So here I am, getting caught up on blog entries. But I can’t even post them until later. So prepare yourselves for like ten entries to go up all at once.  Probably long and rambling. Because I’ve done my reading and there’s nothing left to do but write.  Or potentially go get myself lost in the Medina with no way home…

George, The Morrocats, and The Rooster Who Can’t Tell Time: Now with pictures

Ok, so given my tendency to ramble and inability to tell stories in any kind of chronological order, I’m going to be posting in terms of general topics. And right now I’m going to talk about cats, a dog, and a rooster. Also I’m lazy and haven’t pulled more of my pictures yet so they’ll go up later.

Update: Pictures. Of Cats. 





Here in Rabat, there are cats everywhere.  Literally EVERYWHERE.  Every street corner, every alley, piled in the shade under every tree.  The overwhelming majority are certainly not pets, though people seem willing to toss scraps their way often enough to keep the population in the billions.  (I’ll restrain myself from posting a picture of cats fighting over chicken heads, since it’s not for the faint of heart or stomach…)  These cats seem to mostly disregard anyone or anything, unless it involves food, and I’ve nearly tripped on several because they couldn’t be bothered to move out of the middle of the sidewalk.  I have seen some pretty horrendous eye infections and ear mite infestations among this horde of white and yellow calicos, but in general Moroccans don’t seem to notice or be concerned by it.  The idea of pets doesn’t exist in Morocco the way it does in the U.S., so that’s been interesting to see.

One last thing about cats is the yowling.  With so many cats everywhere, they are bound to get into fights.  My issue is that I’ve snapped awake at 3:00 in the morning to sobbing and screaming several times, only to realize that it’s just cats fighting outside my window.  Their yowling is eerily human (kind of like the sound of babies bawling) and absolutely nerve-rattling in the middle of the night.

The animals people are most familiar here are cows and chickens and the like, which generally appear as hunks of meat hanging in market stalls.  And as someone who did not grow up on a farm, I can’t say that I’m ever going to get used to seeing cow feet hanging up (I think that’s what they are, but I haven’t exactly tried to examine them super closely), or live chickens chilling in cages next to their headless, plucked counterparts. (It’s even more unsettling when I remember that those chicken heads mostly get tossed out for the cats to fight over.)

There aren’t really any dogs here, pets or strays. I think I’ve only seen three strays slinking around, and a single pet foofy dog (kind of looked like a Pekinese) hanging out at one of the shops. Dogs (“kelb” in Darija) are considered sort of ‘unclean,’ and we may have gotten a few strange looks since our kelb George started escorting us everywhere.  George (who is a girl, as far as anyone can tell) adopted us more than we adopted her.  She hung out outside the hotel our study abroad group stayed at for orientation, then began chaperoning us everywhere we went for our program – from the Hotel Darna to the Center for Cross-Cultural learning to the Arabic Education Annex – and attempted to sneak into several buildings with us. 

She has apparently laid claim to Bab Laalou and the neighborhood Marassa, and chases off or pins into submission any dog or cat she finds on her turf.   George seems pretty intent on indefinitely continuing her job as professional SIT study abroad escort, and has refused to be lured away from us by a program coordinator’s offer of food.  (Just to clarify, no one tries to pet her, for all she seems friendly enough.  And I don’t know why or when we named her George.)

This is George. She's pretty cool.

Also, there’s this rooster.  And it crows basically every five minutes at random.  Not at dawn.  Not once on the hour, every hour.  But all the time, outside the window of our group’s conference room.  A testament to the juxtaposition of rural elements in a continually developing urban setting.  

Monday, September 2, 2013

Bienvenue Maroc

I've finally made it to Morocco, after basically 24 hours of travel. Give or take, since it gets weird with all the time changes. I'm just thrilled my bag made it here with me (some people's didn't).

I failed to sleep during the majority of my travel time, so when I got in to Rabat yesterday I was ready to drop. Instead, there were tons of introductions (pretty sure I only remember a handful of the people I met), and lots of walking when we went to explore the beach and the Medina. (The beach was less of a "beach" and more like sandy cliffs with lots of trash and fishermen)





The architecture of almost every building, inside and out, is amazing.  Most facades are elaborately carved or inlaid with mosaic tile. And the VIEWS. It seems like almost every building has a rooftop terrace with views over the whole city.